Reviews You Can Rely On

Evolv Cruzer Psyche Review

This is a good shoe for long multi-pitch climbs with short approaches and descents
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evolv cruzer psyche approach shoes review
Credit: Evolv
Price:  $79 List
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Manufacturer:   Evolv
By Matt Bento ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Nov 25, 2017
59
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Climbing Ability - 35% 8.0
  • Hiking Comfort - 25% 2.0
  • Support - 20% 3.0
  • Weight and Packability - 20% 10.0

Our Verdict

The Evolv Cruzer Psyche is one of the best climbers due to its balance of support and snug-fitting sensitivity, while still looking slick enough that we'd wear straight from the crag to the bar without thinking twice about it. The main difference between the Psyche and the classic Cruzer model is a trail runner last on the Psyche that offers slightly more support for longer approaches with a heavy pack. The Cruzer Psyche compromises the lightweight flat construction of the original with what our testers feel is only a marginal amount of support. This is one of the best options for hiking off the top of multi-pitch climbs.
REASONS TO BUY
Ultralight-weight
Pack down small
Canvas upper breathes well
REASONS TO AVOID
Not very supportive
Not durable
New Colors

Evolv has switched up the color options for these lightweight kicks. All of the other features remain the same.

December 2018

Our Analysis and Test Results

No model feels as light on our harnesses as a pair of Evolv Cruzers.

Performance Comparison


evolv cruzer psyche approach shoes review - these lightweight canvas uppers breathe well but aren't very durable.
These lightweight canvas uppers breathe well but aren't very durable.
Credit: Matt Bento

Climbing Ability


The thin-soled Cruzer Psyche climbs well if it fits snug. Not being a very stiff shoe, a looser fitting, hiking-sized Cruzer left our testers with a disconcerting floppy feeling, but when snugged up this shoe edges well and provides an awesome degree of sensitivity not usually found in an approach shoe.

evolv cruzer psyche approach shoes review - these shoes are thin soled and extremely sensitive, so they're great...
These shoes are thin soled and extremely sensitive, so they're great for climbing.
Credit: Matt Bento

Edging


The Cruzer Psyche is a stiffer shoe than its little brother, the Cruzer classic, and while it retains the much of the Cruzer Classic's sensitivity, it edges better than the original. Our testers could feel edges better in these shoes than any other contender in this year's line up. This made for more enjoyable scrambling over the feldspar knobs and edges found on Cathedral Peak and the Matthes Crest.

Smearing


Armed with a thin outsole of TRAX High Friction rubber, these shoes smear almost as well as the champion of smearing, the Five Ten Guide Tennie and its stealth rubber. Our testers enjoyed warming on up easy granite slabs in Pine Creek Canyon while their feet remained fresh and comfy.

evolv cruzer psyche approach shoes review - a low profile allows these shoes to fit into narrower cracks, but...
A low profile allows these shoes to fit into narrower cracks, but the canvas uppers wear out more quickly than leather shoes.
Credit: Matt Bento

Cracks


The Cruzer Psyche has one of the lowest profiles of all the approach shoes we reviewed. The comfortable and breathable canvas upper is not as durable as leather shoes like the La Sportiva Boulder X or the La Sportiva TX4, so repeated use in cracks will significantly decrease the lifespan of this shoe.

Hiking Comfort


These shoes are not ideal for long approaches or carrying heavy loads. The soft EVA midsole is a welcome addition to the Cruzer Classic (which has no midsole), but it still wasn't enough to keep our testers comfortable for the long haul. The pronators among us in particular, as their heels slid around and slightly off the heel.

evolv cruzer psyche approach shoes review - trax rubber and a super thin midsole are all that stand between you...
Trax rubber and a super thin midsole are all that stand between you and the rock.
Credit: Matt Bento

Support


These shoes offer the least supportive of all the shoes tested. While slightly more supportive than the Cruzer Classic, they still aren't what we would choose to hike around with heavy packs or stand in aiders all day, but that isn't what they were designed for. If you're cruising around the boulder field, roadside cragging, or walking around town, the Cruzer Psyche is more than adequate.

Weight and Packability


If you're going to be climbing long free routes and you need to have shoes clipped to your harness for the walk-off, these are the shoes you want to have, hands down. At 17.4 ounces for a men's 9.5, they are the lightest shoes we reviewed. The floppy canvas upper compacts and compresses, and one of our testers managed to squeeze through the notoriously narrow Harding Slot with these shoes still on his harness. Laced up tight, we found we could store a few bars and a headlamp inside without worrying about them falling out.

Value


These shoes are the least expensive pair of kicks in our review. For those who like to have a quiver of shoes, having a dedicated descent shoe is a no-brainer, but there low durability score and specialization costs it our Best Buy Award, which goes to the durable but more expensive La Sportiva Boulder X.

Conclusion


Our like the Evolv Cruzer Psyche for its improved durability and support from the Ultralight original Cruzer Classic and are psyched (pun intended) to wear them out to the boulder crag, or riding around town. We universally agreed that they are the most stylish shoes in the line-up.

Matt Bento